SINGAPORE – Securing an interview with Mr Nicholas Tan, the Singaporean founder of Aupen, is no easy feat. After weeks of back-and-forth e-mails, the stars finally aligned for a Friday night Zoom call on Nov 29.

I first met the Paris-based 35-year-old at a yacht party in Singapore in September. At the time, his identity as the man behind the viral online-only bag brand was still a topic of speculation.

But I knew exactly who he was. Watching him effortlessly navigate the room, it was clear that the same air of purpose and quiet confidence driving Aupen were also deeply woven into his personality.

Mr Tan appeared on my screen promptly at 8pm, exuding a sharp focus and a more reserved demeanour compared with the relaxed charm he displayed at that party.

Tonight, he is all business, ready to dive into the story of Aupen – a label that has taken the fashion world by storm.

“It’s funny,” he says, leaning into the camera. “Everyone thinks Taylor Swift launched us when she carried our bag (while out) with Travis Kelce. But that wasn’t even the first time.”

The moment he is referring to – a paparazzi shot from October 2023 of the American pop star leaving a New York City restaurant with her American football star-boyfriend Kelce – went viral, with Swift clutching Aupen’s US$420 (S$560) black Nirvana bag.

An October 2023 photo of American pop star Taylor Swift carrying an Aupen bag while out with her boyfriend, footballer Travis Kelce. PHOTO: AUPEN

That single photo ignited a frenzy, catapulting searches for Aupen to new heights.

However, Mr Tan is quick to set the record straight.

“The first time Taylor carried the bag was actually to (American producer-songwriter) Jack Antonoff’s wedding in August,” he says, a smile breaking across his face at the memory.

“I saw it on her Instagram and was so happy,” he adds, admitting that he is a Swiftie.

He clarifies that Swift’s use of the bag was not a planned placement, nor are the sightings on a slew of Hollywood actresses.

And that, according to him, is exactly what makes Aupen stand out.

“These celebrities genuinely use it. It’s not just a one-off thing for the cameras,” he stresses. “Selena Gomez has carried our bags four or five times. Jennifer Lawrence, the same. Emma Stone has worn our designs on multiple occasions. It warms my heart to know that the bag is a real part of their wardrobe.”

Founded in Singapore in November 2022, Aupen has achieved what few home-grown brands have: stratospheric fame on a global scale.

Its designs have struck a chord with both fashion insiders and everyday consumers.

But, for Mr Tan, Aupen’s appeal lies in more than just aesthetics.

“I think what Aupen is doing today in the fashion industry is really disrupting and breaking some traditional systems,” he says.

Unlike heritage fashion houses that adhere to a rigid calendar – showcasing autumn collections in February and spring lines in September – Aupen chooses a freer approach.

New styles are occasionally showcased on its Instagram page (@aupenofficial), which has more than 63,000 followers.

“With social media, there’s this constant churn of new products, new trends. Everyone’s asking, ‘What’s next?’ But we’re not interested in being part of that cycle,” he says.

Instead, Aupen releases products on its own schedule, unveiling new styles only when they are fully ready.

“We produce things in limited quantities and when they sell out, they sell out,” he says.

This philosophy extends to the brand’s pricing. With designs that rarely exceed $600 in price, Aupen positions itself as an accessible luxury brand, offering products that combine premium craftsmanship with a price point that feels attainable.

This ethos has not only won over the hearts of consumers, but also earned the recognition of industry giants like LVMH Metiers d’Art, a division of the French luxury conglomerate dedicated to preserving artisanal craftsmanship.

The partnership, announced in July, is a groundbreaking first for a local company and a significant milestone for Aupen. It elevates the brand’s craftsmanship to the prestigious “Made in France” quality synonymous with the luxury sector – a momentous achievement, especially in today’s competitive fashion landscape.

Mr Tan reveals that he initially reached out to LVMH in 2023, drawn by their shared commitment to quality and innovation.

Once it became clear that their values were aligned, the collaboration took shape, granting Aupen access to LVMH’s renowned network of ateliers, including Tanneries Roux and Jade Groupe.

“They’ve taught us so much about quality control,” Mr Tan says.

“For example, testing leather for colour fastness, scratch resistance and thickness – these are things they’ve helped us refine. And for hardware, they’ve shown us how to test for durability across all the different materials used,” he says, adding that LVMH’s expertise brought a new level of precision and sophistication to their processes.

From humble beginnings to Hollywood

Aupen’s founder Nicholas Tan grew up with a middle-class background and is close to his grandmother. PHOTO: AUPEN

I had been advised beforehand to steer clear of personal questions – a boundary Mr Tan fiercely guards as part of his desire to maintain privacy and keep the spotlight firmly on his work.

But, after some gentle persuasion, the bachelor opens up about his personal story.

His journey to founding Aupen began in Clementi, where he grew up. The middle child in a family of five, Tan had a close relationship with his grandmother, who played a pivotal role in his upbringing.

His father, now 69, was a university lecturer, while his mother, 68, worked as an accountant. His two sisters, aged 37 and 31, pursued their own paths outside the fashion world, leaving Mr Tan as the outlier with a passion for design.

“My late grandfather was a truck driver who shovelled sand to build Singapore during its early years,” he says. “It was a milestone when my dad became the first university graduate in our family. And now, I’m proud to say I’m the first entrepreneur.”

When asked if he has the so-called “middle child syndrome”, he waves off the suggestion and insists he enjoyed a normal upbringing.

But, from an outsider’s perspective, it is easy to see how traits often associated with middle children – self-reliance and independence – may have played a role in shaping his ambitious, driven nature.

His tenacity was evident even before he entered the fashion world. A competitive swimmer during his school years at Raffles Institution and Raffles Junior College, he trained rigorously – up to 10 times a week.

“I’ve always been ambitious and competitive, whether it was in the pool or now with Aupen,” he reflects. “That energy and discipline I had as an athlete are things I still channel into my work today.”

Former national swimmer Nicholas Tan swims the butterfly leg of the 4X100m medley relay final at the Asian Games in Guangzhou, on Nov 18, 2010. ST PHOTO: LIM SIN THAI

After completing his national service in the Republic of Singapore Navy and graduating with a biology degree from Harvard University in the United States, he ventured into the world of fashion with no formal training.

In 2014, he had his first brush with the global fashion spotlight, as one of seven international models handpicked by Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana for an advertising campaign.

This moment might have been a career pinnacle for many, but for Mr Tan – then 25 – it was simply another stepping stone in an eclectic professional journey that would later include tech IPOs and entrepreneurship.

“My interests have always been varied,” he says. “I want to inspire people to be open-minded and not pigeonhole themselves or their identities. With determination and curiosity, you can embrace new interests or careers, no matter where life takes you.”

That same year, he became an early team member at Garena – now Shopee – Singapore’s leading e-commerce platform.

He then returned to fashion, opening a showroom in 2018 that introduced the works of acclaimed designers such as Belgium’s Dries van Noten and French-American Joseph Altuzarra to the Asian market.

“I was managing all these other brands, but at a certain point, I realised I didn’t want to be the backup singer any more,” he says. “I wanted to be the lead.”

With that resolve, he closed his showroom and founded Aupen in 2022, creating a brand that would reflect his own vision. However, his journey to success was far from smooth.

“When I pitched my plans for Aupen to people in Singapore, they were rejected for not being ‘holistic’. I remember friends of mine – even a chief editor at a fashion magazine – told me I was never going to make it because I didn’t have the right qualifications,” he says.

“I hope Singapore will realise we have talent in our own backyard.”

For the first two years, he operated out of his grandmother’s home, with her serving as the stock controller. He personally designed the bags and sold them directly through his website.

“I didn’t like seeing her alone after my grandfather passed, so I asked if she wanted to help me with my business. It gave her a sense of purpose and allowed us to spend more time together,” he recalls fondly.

For him, Aupen – a portmanteau of “authentic” and “open” and pronounced as “open” – embodies a departure from traditional or trend-driven accessory design.

“I’m inspired by sculptures. I don’t think many bags are envisioned as sculptures first when they’re designed. Often, bags are engineered around trends or practicality – what can you fit inside?

“For us, it’s a completely different approach. We start with form and artistry, creating something that’s visually striking but still functional,” he says.

This sculptural perspective has become Aupen’s hallmark, as have its minimalist yet architectural designs.

One of the earliest celebrities spotted with an Aupen bag was American model Hailey Bieber. Mr Tan recalls the surreal moment he came across a 2023 photo of her at Coachella, carrying the Aupen Purpose Bag.

“I thought I was dreaming,” he says. “I had to look at the photo again to make sure it was real and not a dream. She even did a series of Instagram posts with the bag.”

Aupen continued growing and what began as a one-man operation has since grown into a dynamic team of more than 10 people today.

Unlike many luxury brands with a single, visionary creative director at the helm, Aupen takes a collaborative approach to design.

“I contribute to the designs, but we also have other talented designers in the company,” says Mr Tan.

Aupen’s newest collection, launched in late November as its first collaboration with LVMH Metiers d’Art, introduces five festive interpretations of the Nirvana bag, including designs in brown shearling and metallic finishes. They are retailing for $458 each on aupen.com

Mr Tan says: “The Nirvana has been spotted on so many pop stars recently, including Charlie XCX, Lady Gaga, Olivia Rodrigo and Taylor Swift. With this collection, we wanted to play with textures to create this beautiful juxtaposition that complements a girl’s outfit.”

Today, Aupen’s primary markets are in America and Europe, where the brand’s aesthetic and accessible luxury ethos have resonated deeply.

According to Mr Tan, there are no plans to establish a physical retail presence, at least for now.

“The true story of Aupen is that it was the West that picked us,” he says, adding that he is still in the midst of looking for an office space in Paris – a city that has become a wellspring of inspiration for him.

“Paris is the epicentre of fashion,” he continues. “Being in the city exposes me to so many different brands, collections, museum exhibits and fashion events. It’s an environment that helps me understand where luxury fashion is headed.”

Mr Tan also spends much of his time flying among fashion capitals, where he finds inspiration in how deeply rooted heritage brands are in their respective cultures.

“When I’m in Paris, I see so many Parisians proudly carrying Louis Vuitton and Chanel because those brands are French. In Milan, I see Italians carrying Prada and Gucci with the same pride. It’s a reflection of their cultural identity.”

His aspiration? To see Singaporeans embrace Aupen in the same way.

“I hope that one day, as I walk down the streets of Singapore, I’ll see girls carrying Aupen bags with the same pride,” he says. “Right now, our brand awareness in Singapore isn’t as high as it is overseas.”

As our conversation winds down, I ask Mr Tan what advice he would give to his younger self.

“I would tell myself to not set limits, to dare to think big and dream big,” he says. “It’s something I’ve learnt gradually over time.

“In Singapore, there’s often a tendency for society to impose limitations or stereotype you into certain professions. But I hope my journey – and what we’ve built with Aupen – shows that it’s possible to break free from those expectations. If you truly believe in yourself and set your mind to it, you can achieve anything.”

This article was sincerely referred from The Straits Times
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